The paint chip samples included hues for exterior surfaces, roof and barn paint, porch and deck paint, flat oil paint, floor enamel, and shingle stain.
Here's the text Scroll ahead if this kind of stuff bores you.
Durable...economical.There's more on how to determine the quantity of paint needed, but I'm feeling too lazy to type that in, and it's the difference in painting techniques from then to now that really has my interest, anyway.
Our paints, colors of which are shown on the following pages, are designed to meet the exactly requirements of extreme wear and weather conditions, and also to produce a finish that is both durable and beautiful.
Our aim is to submit a line of popular and serviceable colors, capable of pleasing combinations.
If you will carefully follow the general directions for the application of these high grade paints as shown on each can, you will be well repaid in long years of service.
To get real satisfaction use your paints made on a pure linseed oil base. You will be better satisfied and the saving you will make in longer service will repay you many times over.
Directions for Use
Remove full head of package and stir paint thoroughly; this is accomplished by pouring off the liquid portion of the paint, then stirring with a lifting motion from bottom and side of can, gradually pouring back the thinners while stirring. This will insure a uniform consistency of the paint.
For new work
For priming coat, thin the paint with raw linseed oil, using one quart of oil to one gallon of paint. For the second coat, in case thinning is necessary, use one pint of turpentine to one gallon of paint. For third or finishing coat, always apply paint just as if comes from the can.
For old work
Remove all loose paint from surface with steel brush or scraper. When surface is porous and has not been painted for a long time, apply three coats of paint, the same as for new work. When the surface is in good condition, thin the first coat with one pint of turpentine and one pint of pure linseed oil to one gallon of paint. For finishing coat, apply just as it comes from the can.
The above directions will cover the average conditions in painting to insure an absolutely perfect job.
Be sure to brush out paint well, as three thin coats of paint wear better than two thick coats.
To insure best results, new work should always have three coats, two besides the priming coat.
Don't paint damp, unseasoned, sappy or pitchy wood.
Allow three or more days between coats for drying.
Putty all seams, cracks, nail holes, etc., preferably after the priming coat has been put on, as the putty will adhere more closely than to the bare wood.
Always begin at the top in painting, working across the entire width of the building taking care to remove all dust in advance and covering knotty or pitchy portions with shellac.
Some of the colors in this palette are actually quite nice, and I'm toying with the idea of using them. As soon as Ted and my mom agree to let me build a shed in the backyard for the chickens (which I'm sure I'm not allowed to raise within city limits), I'm going to paint it this barn red.
The Box House is a democracy, and everything gets voted on. I doubt they'll let me have chickens.
Except for the basement and the back porch, everything at The Box House is currently painted white, but here and there where the paint has chipped and where I've managed to poke behind radiators, I've found evidence of a few of these colors. There was once "cream" colored trim and "pea green" shelves in one of the bedrooms. Another bedroom was wallpapered, with what looks like light pink trim at the base.
In the basement, the exterior brick walls are still painted ivory, moss green, and battleship grey and the sheet rock is ivory and white. Eventually, I hope I'll be able to find a good way to remove the paint and restore the brick.
So, has anyone discovered any of these colors in their own homes?