Removing Paint from Concrete, Masonry, Limestone

I have a hard time sitting still without getting antsy. I think it's because I work for myself, so time spent not working on a project is time spent not making any money. When I'm not on the computer, I feel I should still be doing something somewhat useful and not just sitting around and relaxing. Ted's much the same way.

A few days ago, when the weather was in the sixties, I whined until I got Mom and Ted to sit with me on the front steps to enjoy a cup of coffee and watch the world go by. The picture below was taken in winter, but that's pretty much what the front entrance looks like now, just without snow.

But did any of us sit still? No. I'm pacing back and forth in front of the house, coffee in hand, discussing plans for the garden with Mom. Ted was sitting on the porch in the shade, but in between sips of coffee he's working on this:

Scraping off flaky white paint. (What's the matter with us? Why can't we just relax?)

The previous owners had coated everything they could in white paint prior to selling. The interior walls had a fresh coat and I think the same paint--interior paint--was used to paint over all of the decorative masonry on the exterior. If you look at the top photo, you can see that all of the window sills and all of the horizontal trim has been painted white.

You can tell better in this photo (from the original listing):

So those little squares at the top, those long horizontal decorative bits that wrap around the house, and every window sill has been painted white.

Only, I'm pretty sure it's the same interior paint used on the walls. The flat surfaces are mostly peeling and flaking, and I don't recall them doing that last fall when we first saw the place. Winter was harsh on them. It's very easy to get the paint off these surfaces with a scraper, and as Ted removed the paint, we saw that the surfaces are actually dirty, and in some spots there is green algae, or whatever it is that grows on limestone. So the paint doesn't have a firm grip. At least not on the horizontals.

Ted made some decent progress that day, and every nice day we've had since I've been out there with my cup of coffee. I have most of the flat surfaces by the front steps now clear of paint. But I still have the vertical surfaces to do, and I'm encountering quite a bit of trouble. The stuff is not flaking nearly as much, and in some parts, it's quite stubborn. I'm afraid of scraping too hard.

I was hoping not to have to go the chemical route, but I think a trip to Sherwin Williams or Home Depot might be in order. I had tried a soy-based paint remover on some of the interior brickwork, but without success. Although I've heard a few good things about PeelAway 7 and its use on masonry, I haven't personally encountered anyone who has tried it for such. I tried PeelAway 6 on some woodwork with mixed success--it's okay on latex, but has problems with enamel. Is there really that big a difference between the 6 & 7? I haven't been able to locate the PA7 locally, and it's pretty expensive online, so I'd like to know more about it before making the investment.

So, does anyone have a recommendation for removing paint on masonry? Have you been able to remove paint from similar surfaces?

Update: My apologies to Dynochick; I originally called all of the decorative trim concrete, when it fact some if not all is probably limestone. I was not aware of just how different the care of both materials are, and carelessly mixed terms. Sorry that my post led you astray.

Before heading out to the paint store for PeelAway7, I decided to check for some coupons online and found one on another blog for 20% off at Sherwin Williams. I'll give it a try this week. Hope it's a valid one.

Red Bungalow, Los Angeles, Southern California

The Box House is primarily made of brick, but there are a few places where we can get creative with paint. The front entryway is one; we're also going to strip the white paint off the masonry and maybe use a concrete stain so it's not so, well, bright. I've begun to gather images of 1900s-1920s style houses to get a feel for color schemes. I doubt we'll paint this summer, with so many other projects in the works, so there's plenty of time to mull things over. I'll post these images periodically, because they also give an excellent idea on what gardens looked like then.

This one is from an old postcard of a Southern California Bungalow, Los Angeles.

Original 1930s Color Palette, 3 of 3: Nu-Enamel Modern Finish (Made by Elves)

"Color from the World's Most Beautiful Flowers."

This is the third in a series on the 1930s color palettes I found in the basement of The Box House, and this brochure for Nu-Enamel Modern Finish is probably my favorite. The brochure is from The Nu-Enamel Shop at 1711 Sherman Ave.  (the location is now a CVS Pharmacy--seems they are everywhere these days).

I wish our bathrooms were as spacious as the ones in this advert. I'd even settle for pink! How cool would a vintage pink bathroom be?

The text from the brochure reads:

Remove this Piece of Metal. It is coated with Nu-Enamel. Bend it, twist it, fold it, hammer it. You will find it will not check, crack, or peel. This test proves that Nu-Enamel endures the most severe abuse.

Paint it Yourself!
You will always get expert results with Nu-Enamel because of these features:

One Coat Covers
The paddle illustrated is painted with stripes of different colors ranging from black to white. One coat of any Nu-Enamel color will completely hide most painted surfaces.

No Brush Marks
Paint a small area of any surface with Nu-Enamel. Then write your name on it with the handle of the brush. Within a few seconds, the entire paint film levels off perfectly smooth.

Resists Acids
The attached piece of metal is painted with one coat of Nu-Enamel. If placed in a muriatic acid solution the metal will dissolve, leaving the film of Nu-Enamel unharmed.

Cleans Easily
Nu-Enamel is non-porous. As a result--a damp cloth will remove, easily and quickly, all traces of grease and dirt. Repeated washing will not injure the porcelain-like finish.

Your Nu-Enamel dealer will be happy to demonstrate these features to you--in fact, he will place a brush in your hand and invite you to "Try before you buy." The amazing sales record established by Nu-Enamel is due to satisfied customers recommending it to their friends.

Surround yourself with Cheerful Colors. Every day, thousands of people--most of them without any previous painting experience whatsoever, are beautifying their home surroundings with Nu-Enamel. You can, too.

From toilet seats to wood radios, it seems the paint was made to cover it all. Lucky for us, the Previous Owners did not paint over our wood trim in the dining room, living room, stairwell, or entryway--although everything else has been covered. Click image for a slightly larger although somewhat fuzzy view.

I'm not sure how often I'd be walking around with muriatic solution in hand, but it's good to know that any Nu-Enamel painted surfaces will be safe from potential harm.

Original 1930s Paint Palette, 2 of 3: Rust-Oleum

Here's part two of the series on vintage paint chip samples we found in the basement. This one is for Rust-Oleum, which had a factory at 2425 Oakton St. in Evanston.

The paint chip samples included hues for exterior surfaces, roof and barn paint, porch and deck paint, flat oil paint, floor enamel, and shingle stain.

Here's the text Scroll ahead if this kind of stuff bores you.

Durable...economical.

Our paints, colors of which are shown on the following pages, are designed to meet the exactly requirements of extreme wear and weather conditions, and also to produce a finish that is both durable and beautiful.

Our aim is to submit a line of popular and serviceable colors, capable of pleasing combinations.

If you will carefully follow the general directions for the application of these high grade paints as shown on each can, you will be well repaid in long years of service.

To get real satisfaction use your paints made on a pure linseed oil base. You will be better satisfied and the saving you will make in longer service will repay you many times over.

Directions for Use

Remove full head of package and stir paint thoroughly; this is accomplished by pouring off the liquid portion of the paint, then stirring with a lifting motion from bottom and side of can, gradually pouring back the thinners while stirring. This will insure a uniform consistency of the paint.

For new work

For priming coat, thin the paint with raw linseed oil, using one quart of oil to one gallon of paint. For the second coat, in case thinning is necessary, use one pint of turpentine to one gallon of paint. For third or finishing coat, always apply paint just as if comes from the can.

For old work

Remove all loose paint from surface with steel brush or scraper. When surface is porous and has not been painted for a long time, apply three coats of paint, the same as for new work. When the surface is in good condition, thin the first coat with one pint of turpentine and one pint of pure linseed oil to one gallon of paint. For finishing coat, apply just as it comes from the can.

The above directions will cover the average conditions in painting to insure an absolutely perfect job.

Painting Suggestions

Be sure to brush out paint well, as three thin coats of paint wear better than two thick coats.

To insure best results, new work should always have three coats, two besides the priming coat.

Don't paint damp, unseasoned, sappy or pitchy wood.

Allow three or more days between coats for drying.

Putty all seams, cracks, nail holes, etc., preferably after the priming coat has been put on, as the putty will adhere more closely than to the bare wood.

Always begin at the top in painting, working across the entire width of the building taking care to remove all dust in advance and covering knotty or pitchy portions with shellac.

There's more on how to determine the quantity of paint needed, but I'm feeling too lazy to type that in, and it's the difference in painting techniques from then to now that really has my interest, anyway.

Some of the colors in this palette are actually quite nice, and I'm toying with the idea of using them. As soon as Ted and my mom agree to let me build a shed in the backyard for the chickens (which I'm sure I'm not allowed to raise within city limits), I'm going to paint it this barn red.

The Box House is a democracy, and everything gets voted on. I doubt they'll let me have chickens.

Except for the basement and the back porch, everything at The Box House is currently painted white, but here and there where the paint has chipped and where I've managed to poke behind radiators, I've found evidence of a few of these colors. There was once "cream" colored trim and "pea green" shelves in one of the bedrooms. Another bedroom was wallpapered, with what looks like light pink trim at the base.

In the basement, the exterior brick walls are still painted ivory, moss green, and battleship grey and the sheet rock is ivory and white. Eventually, I hope I'll be able to find a good way to remove the paint and restore the brick.

So, has anyone discovered any of these colors in their own homes?

Original 1930s Paint Palette, 1 of 3: Porch and Deck Paint

Light Drab or Dark Lead? It's so hard to choose...

While puttering in the basement yesterday, I decided to take out a junky old cabinet in the work/tool room. None of us liked it, and had no intention of reutilizing it anywhere in the Box House. For now, it's in the garage, awaiting some decision as to its ultimate fate.

As we were wrenching it from the sheet rock, Ted noticed that on top of the cabinet was a collection of paint chip sample brochures from the 1930s. One of them was dated 1935, and I assume, from the style of the illustrations, the other two are from the same period. Sweet!

Those of you who are trying to restore your 1920s or 1930s home may find these palettes of interest. I plan to upload images from all three this week, and type in the accompanying text.

The first is for Florex Wood Cement: An Enamel Paint for Concrete and Wood Floors. It was distributed by the Wood-Davis Company at 1565 Sherman Ave , which today houses Vive le Crepe, a French-style bistro and creperie. There were other Wood-Davis locations at 4664 Lincoln in Chicago, 6316 Northwest Hwy., and 1318 N. Clark St. in Chicago.


Here's the text from the Florex brochure:

Quick Drying
One Coat Covers
Washable

For use on all surfaces--wood, concrete, metal, and composition inside and out. Let us tell you how small the expense will be to paint your basement or attic floor, porch, laundry--or any inside or outside surface.

Porch and Deck Enamel Paint

Floors, both inside and out, steps, and boat decks are necessarily subjected to an unusual amount of wear. Unless coated with a finish designed to withstand the constant abrasion from walking and moving of furniture, as well as exposure to the elements, floors and decks soon take on a very unsightly appearance.

Porch and Deck Enamel is scientifically prepared to withstand especially hard usage on wood, metal, or concrete surfaces. It forms a beautiful gloss that does not become dull from repeated washing and scrubbing.

Porch and Deck Enamel is a product of high gloss and extreme durability. Specially adapted for garage floors, porch floors, hospitals, offices, factories, etc. It comes ready for use, drying hard over night.

General Directions

The surface must be thoroughly dry and free from loose paint, grease, and dirt. Brush the paint out thoroughly in thin even coats. Make certain that each coat is perfectly hard and dry before applying the next coat.

*New Floors: To obtain best results, use three coats of paint. First coat should be thinned according to instructions on the label. Apply the second and third coats without thinning.

*For Previously Painted Wood Floors: Bare spots should be touched up with paint thinned as for "New Floors." Sandpaper the surface well when dry, then apply one or two coats without thinning. If there are cracks between the boards, fill these with Paste Wood Filler after the first coat of enamel has been applied.

*For New Concrete Floors: Important--Do not paint concrete floors when they are cold, or when the room is cold and wet. This condition will retard the drying of the enamel.

Cement floors that have been laid directly on the ground without the proper drainage rarely present an ideal surface for painting, because moisture will cause it to remain in a tacky condition. The surface should also be free from alkali, as an alkaline surface will prevent the enamel from drying.

Test for Alkalinity

Wet various spots of the floor with water and place a piece of litmus paper on each spot. Allow to stand for a few minutes and if litmus turns blue, it is an indication that there is alkali present. In such cases, the alkali should be neutralized by applying a wash coat of three pounds of Zinc Sulphate to the gallon of water. Let dry thoroughly (at least three days) after which brush the surface carefully to remove any remaining crystals.

*For previously painted concrete floors: Touch up any bare spots as directed for new concrete. When thoroughly dry, apply one or two coats without thinning.

Paint techniques don't seem to have changed that much--except for maybe the alkaline test!

Color 227 Battleship Gray is the exact color used in our back stairwell/porches. (The flash makes it look lighter in the picture.) The porches are enclosed, but not heated, and the interior wall surfaces and decks are this very shade. Do you think it's possible the paint job dates back to the 1930s? Or have previous owners just used the same color over and over? It doesn't really look like there are too many coats of paint.


On one of our errands this week, we stopped at a Sherwin-Williams paint store to pick up a few of their interior preservation palette samples, which I first discovered after reading Chicago Two-Flat's description of using Bunglehouse Blue for their door. They are an excellent source for reproducing period interiors. Here are links to find the palettes on the Sherwin-Williams site:

Classical/Colonial
The warmth and charm of the 1800s that's just as beautiful today.

Arts & Crafts
Return to the basic lines and balance inspired by the Arts & Crafts style of the 1900s.

Victorian
The intricate delicacy of the Victorian decorative style.

The Jazz Age
A palette of contrasts captures the vintage look of the 1920s.

Streamlined Years
Warm, personal hues evoke the simple sophistication of the 1930s.

Suburban Modern
An optimistic outlook reflected in the cheerful colors of the 1950s.

Environmentally Friendly Walls

The catalogs, sales brochures, and paint chip samples have begun to arrive in the mail, and although I know it will be months and months down the road yet, I'm already thinking of paint for the walls. Or rather, plaster.

I had previously used Behr's Venetian Plaster, picked up at Home Depot for $30 a can, for our condo, choosing colors that may either help or hurt us when it comes time to sell the place: red for one bedroom, blue for another, terracotta for the master bedroom, and Absinthe-green for the master bath.

Venetian plaster is ridiculously easy to apply, and the results are pretty impressive. All you really need is a steel trowel and a few hours of your time. Ted and I liked the effect so much, that we considered doing it again for our unit in the Box House.

However, lately I've been reading up a lot on so-called green building techniques. A lot of paint and building materials--everything from glue to varnish--continue to emit harmful chemicals for extended periods of time. There have been several studies linking the offgassing of these chemicals with asthma, and since my mother and I both suffer from it to varying degrees, we're now considering using more environmentally friendly products.

There are two companies whose products I'm considering: Bioshield Healthy Living Paints and American Clay. The overall effect of these plasters and plaster paints reminds me of hostels and hotels I've stayed in while traveling overseas where, in some cases, the plastered walls have endured for generations.

Image from American Clay web site.

Each company uses Earth-friendly or less-harmful ingredients in their products: clay, chalk, marble, cellulose, alcohol ester, sand, organic soap, casein milk solids, asbestos-free talcum, salt, etc. Sounds perfect, doesn't it? The only downside is that the products are shipped in a powdered state--you need to mix 'em up with water before applying. Still, if they're better for the Earth and might have an impact on our health, I'm all for it.